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Succulent Kebabs, Biryani and a World More: Indian City Earns a Spot on Unesco Culinary List.

Biryani being prepared using the classic Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the vessel's cover tightly closed with a paste of flour.

Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.

The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.

An International Accolade

Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".

The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.

A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine

The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".

With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.

"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
Melt-in-the-mouth kebabs being served
Lucknow is celebrated for its succulent kebabs.

An Imperial Food Tradition

The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.

These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.

It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.

But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.

More Than Just Famous Dishes

In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.

The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.

Fluffy dessert a winter specialty
The city offers unique treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a special airy dessert, in the winter.

Time-Tested Food Joints

Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.

In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.

In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Popular tea stall serving masala chai
A legendary tea stall is known for its milky spiced tea.

Ensuring Legacy Continues

The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.

On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.

A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.

The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.

JS
About the author

John Sullivan

Emma Velthuis is a Dutch film critic with a passion for uncovering hidden gems and analyzing cinematic trends.

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